A. Centipede decline over a period of years on home lawns along our barrier Islands is not that unusual. The reason for the deterioration is most likely due to a combination of factors. First, I would suggest having a soil test performed. This test reveals valuable information including the pH of your soil. Centipede will generally perform at its best when growing in soil pH that is more acidic then we generally find along the beach areas. Additionally, nitrogen management is extremely important on centipede lawns. Centipede grass has a low annual nitrogen requirement compared to other lawn types. Centipede is also susceptible to ground pearls, mole crickets, winter injury, and pet damage. If you are thinking about re-sodding areas, I suggest that you contact a turf grass professional who will be able to diagnose your primary problems on site and make sound recommendations.

 

 

A. Generally speaking, Bermuda grass lawns will have specific requirements that will determine the overall quality and appearance, thus making it a turf type that requires higher maintenance then other warm season grasses. Proper mowing is very important to enhance the density and aesthetic appeal. Mowing with a reel mower is ideal however; you can still attain a quality Bermuda lawn with a rotary mower. Be sure that you mow at a 1 inch cutting height and mow frequently during the peak growing season. (Twice a week for best results.). A soil test should be taken to determine the soils pH, and fertility requirements. . Generally, Bermuda grass loves to be fertilized with high nitrogen fertilizer from May – August. Insect pests such as Mole crickets, and occasionally chinch bugs can be problems on Bermuda grass. Again, check your soil pH. A low soil pH could indicate that your lawn needs lime to adjust it to a more favorable range for Bermuda grass. If your soil is compacted, core aeration in May or June will be of great benefit to your lawn. Another problem that sometimes goes undetected on Bermuda lawns in our area is plant parasitic nematodes. Although most nematodes are beneficial microorganisms, several nematode varieties can cause damage to Bermuda lawns.

 

 

 

A. The weed that you are describing sounds like a nasty little summer annual called chamber bitter. Although this weed is an annual, it can be a prolific weed in some home lawns. Close examination of this weed will reveal a row of viable seeds on the under side of the leaf. These seeds will disperse and produce new plants for the next year. For a home owner, getting control of chamber bitter may be challenging as the selection of broadleaf weed control products available is limited. Keep your grass as healthy as possible through proper cultural practices such as mowing, fertilization, and irrigation. Many times, chamber bitter is a problem in natural areas or landscape beds as well as the lawn. You may have some success controlling this weed in your landscape beds with one of the many non selective herbicides available. Most lawn care professionals have access to products that will greatly reduce activity of this weed in your lawn and landscape.

 

Q. I live in the Landfall area and I have had a professional landscape firm that care of my lawn for over 8 years. I have an Emerald Zoysia lawn and for the last 3-4 years, I have dead, circular spots occurring in late summer. My landscaper insists that my irrigation system is designed poorly. I have checked the distribution of water and it seems to be uniformed and has good volume. Is there anything else we can check?

 

A. If the damage is in a circular fashion and the areas look a little “ sunken “ or depressed, it very well could be ground pearl damage. Although many folks associate ground pearl damage with centipede lawns, Zoysia lawns are also very susceptible to damage form ground pearls in the late summer and fall during poor growing conditions. Check the soil under the areas that are damaged, and look for small cream color or purplish pearl like particles. Ground pearls are in the scale insect family and there is presently no great control for this insect. Keep the areas well irrigated during dry periods, mow and fertilize properly, and consider alternative ground covers or extending landscape beds and natural areas.

 

Q. I have a St. Augustine lawn that gets big brown circles in spring and fall. I apply insecticide but it does not seem to help!

 

A. Because you are seeing these circular symptoms in the spring or fall, the problem is most likely either large patch, or fairy ring. These are both fungus diseases. Brown patch is a soil disease that develops on all turf types. Large or brown patch is most often a concern on St. Augustine and centipede grass. To reduce the occurrence of this disease, keep lawn on the dry side and be careful to properly manage the nitrogen (fertilizer) usage in the spring and fall. Several fungicide products are available to curtail disease activity.

 

Fairy ring is a fungus that develops as a result of organic matter such as wood from tree roots, or other material decaying in the soil. The turf may turn darker green during the cool moist conditions of spring, as the decaying material releases nitrogen. Mushrooms may also appear. As conditions get warmer, the dark green circle may turn brown. This is a result of a barrier that impedes water movement to the roots. There is no chemical control. Removing the decaying wood and aerating the ring to improve water to the roots are the best means of control.

 

 

A. Sounds like Florida betony or what is sometimes referred to as wild artichoke or rattlesnake weed. This weed seems to be a problem in all warm season turf types, but a particular pest in St. Augustine and centipede grasses. The best time to control this weed on a post emergent basis is when it first begins to appear in late summer or fall. Professional lawn care firms such as Freedom Lawns can help you get rid of this weed with only a few treatments. If you enjoy doing your own lawn work, several weed controls are sold for control of this weed. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for best results.

 

 

A. Core aeration is an excellent cultural practice to improve drainage and air circulation in the soil, reduce thatch, aid in utilization of fertilizer, and improve the overall quality of your turf. On warm season turf types in the southeast, the ideal time to perform aeration is in the spring after green up. This is generally the may to June period.